Is your home really safe once you leave for work or school? Your home is consid- ered a sanctuary where you should feel safe. Your home is the only environment where you have control over who can get close to you or your family. Protecting your home and family from criminal intrusion should be high on your list of prior- ities. See my web site on Family Security Tips for more information on protecting your family from harm.
By far, the most common threat to our home is burglary. According to the FBI, a burglary occurs somewhere in the United States every 15.4 seconds. By defini- tion, the crime of burglary is a non-confrontational property crime that occurs when we are not at home. However, becoming a burglary victim can leave a fam- ily feeling vulnerable and violated. To avoid becoming a burglary victim, it is im- portant to first gain an understanding of who commits them and why. The majority of home and apartment burglaries occur during the daytime when most people are away at work or school. The summer months of July and August have the most burglaries with February having the fewest crimes. Burglaries are committed most often by young males under 25 years of age looking for items that are small, expensive, and can easily be converted to cash. Favorite items are cash, jewelry, guns, watches, laptop computers, VCRs, video players, CDs and other small electronic devices are high on the list. Quick cash is needed for living expenses and drugs. Statistics tell us that 70% of the burglars use some amount force to enter a dwelling, but their preference is to gain easy access through an open door or window. Ordinary household tools like screwdrivers, channel-lock pliers, small pry bars, and small hammers are most often used by burglars. Bur- glars continue to flourish because police can only clear about 13% of all reported burglaries and rarely catch the thief in the act. Although home burglaries may seem random in occurrence, they actually involve a selection process. The burglar's selection process is simple. Choose an unoccu- pied home with the easiest access, the greatest amount of cover, and with the best escape routes. What follows is a list of suggestions to minimize your risk by mak- ing your home unattractive to potential burglars.
The majority of home and apartment burglaries occur during the daytime when most people are away at work or school. The summer months of July and August have the most burglaries with February having the fewest crimes. Burglaries are committed most often by young males under 25 years of age looking for items that are small, expensive, and can easily be converted to cash. Favorite items are cash, jewelry, guns, watches, laptop computers, VCRs, video players, CDs and other small electronic devices are high on the list. Quick cash is needed for living expenses and drugs. Statistics tell us that 70% of the burglars use some amount force to enter a dwelling, but their preference is to gain easy access through an open door or window. Ordinary household tools like screwdrivers, channel-lock pliers, small pry bars, and small hammers are most often used by burglars. Bur- glars continue to flourish because police can only clear about 13% of all reported burglaries and rarely catch the thief in the act. Although home burglaries may seem random in occurrence, they actually involve a selection process. The burglar's selection process is simple. Choose an unoccu- pied home with the easiest access, the greatest amount of cover, and with the best escape routes. What follows is a list of suggestions to minimize your risk by mak- ing your home unattractive to potential burglars.
Although home burglaries may seem random in occurrence, they actually involve a selection process. The burglar's selection process is simple. Choose an unoccu- pied home with the easiest access, the greatest amount of cover, and with the best escape routes. What follows is a list of suggestions to minimize your risk by mak- ing your home unattractive to potential burglars.
The first step is to "harden the target" or make your home more difficult to enter. Remember, the burglar will simply bypass your home if it requires too much ef- fort or requires more skill and tools than they possess. Most burglars enter via the front, back, or garage doors. Experienced burglars know that the garage door is usually the weakest point of entry followed by the back door. The garage and back doors also provide the most cover. Burglars know to look inside your car for keys and other valuables so keep it locked, even when parked inside your garage. Use high quality Grade-1 or Grade-2 locks on exterior doors to resist twisting, prying, and lock-picking attempts. A quality deadbolt lock will have a beveled casing to inhibit the use of channel-lock pliers used to shear off lock cylinder pins. A qual- ity door knob-in-lock set will have a 'dead latch' mechanism to prevent slipping the lock with a shim or credit card. * Use a solid core or metal door for all entrance points * Use a quality, heavy-duty, deadbolt lock with a one-inch throw bolt * Use a quality, heavy-duty, knob-in-lock set with a dead-latch * Use a heavy-duty strike plate with 3-inch screws into the frame * Use a wide-angle 160° peephole mounted no higher than 58 inches * Install loud door and window alarms on all possible entrances. The most common way used to force entry through a door with a wooden jamb is to simply kick it open. The weakest point is almost always the lock strike plate that holds the latch or lock bolt in place followed by a glass paneled door. The av- erage door strike plate is secured only by the soft-wood doorjamb molding. These lightweight moldings are often tacked on to the door frame and can be torn away with a firm kick. Because of this construction flaw, it makes sense to upgrade to a four-screw, heavy-duty, high security strike plate. They are available in most qual- ity hardware stores and home improvement centers and are definitely worth the extra expense. Install this heavy-duty strike plate using 3-inch wood screws to cut deep into the door frame stud. Use these longer screws in the knob lock strike plate as well and use at least one long screw in each door hinge. This one step alone will deter or prevent most through-the-door forced entries. You and your family will sleep safer in the future.
* Use a solid core or metal door for all entrance points * Use a quality, heavy-duty, deadbolt lock with a one-inch throw bolt * Use a quality, heavy-duty, knob-in-lock set with a dead-latch * Use a heavy-duty strike plate with 3-inch screws into the frame * Use a wide-angle 160° peephole mounted no higher than 58 inches * Install loud door and window alarms on all possible entrances. The most common way used to force entry through a door with a wooden jamb is to simply kick it open. The weakest point is almost always the lock strike plate that holds the latch or lock bolt in place followed by a glass paneled door. The av- erage door strike plate is secured only by the soft-wood doorjamb molding. These lightweight moldings are often tacked on to the door frame and can be torn away with a firm kick. Because of this construction flaw, it makes sense to upgrade to a four-screw, heavy-duty, high security strike plate. They are available in most qual- ity hardware stores and home improvement centers and are definitely worth the extra expense. Install this heavy-duty strike plate using 3-inch wood screws to cut deep into the door frame stud. Use these longer screws in the knob lock strike plate as well and use at least one long screw in each door hinge. This one step alone will deter or prevent most through-the-door forced entries. You and your family will sleep safer in the future.
The most common way used to force entry through a door with a wooden jamb is to simply kick it open. The weakest point is almost always the lock strike plate that holds the latch or lock bolt in place followed by a glass paneled door. The av- erage door strike plate is secured only by the soft-wood doorjamb molding. These lightweight moldings are often tacked on to the door frame and can be torn away with a firm kick. Because of this construction flaw, it makes sense to upgrade to a four-screw, heavy-duty, high security strike plate. They are available in most qual- ity hardware stores and home improvement centers and are definitely worth the extra expense. Install this heavy-duty strike plate using 3-inch wood screws to cut deep into the door frame stud. Use these longer screws in the knob lock strike plate as well and use at least one long screw in each door hinge. This one step alone will deter or prevent most through-the-door forced entries. You and your family will sleep safer in the future.
Sliding glass doors are secured by latches not locks. They are vulnerable to being forced open from the outside because of these inherently defective latch mecha- nisms. This can be easily be prevented by inserting a wooden dowel or stick into the track thus preventing or limiting movement. Other blocking devices available are metal fold-down blocking devices called "charley bars" and various track- blockers that can be screwed down. The blocking devices described above solve half the equation. Older sliding glass doors can be lifted up and off their track and thereby defeat the latch mechanism. To prevent lifting, you need to keep the door rollers in good condition and prop- erly adjusted. You can also install anti-lift devices such as a pin that extends through both the sliding and fixed portion of the door. There are also numerous locking and blocking devices available in any good quality hardware store that will prevent a sliding door from being lifted or forced horizontally. Place highly visible decals on the glass door near the latch mechanism that indicates that an alarm system, a dog, or block watch / operation identification is in place. Burglars dislike alarm systems and definitely big barking dogs. * Use a secondary blocking device on all sliding glass doors * Keep the latch mechanism in good condition and properly adjusted * Keep sliding door rollers in good condition and properly adjusted * Use anti-lift devices, through-the-door pins or upper track screws * Use beware of dog or block watch decals * Use loud alarms on all possible entrances,
The blocking devices described above solve half the equation. Older sliding glass doors can be lifted up and off their track and thereby defeat the latch mechanism. To prevent lifting, you need to keep the door rollers in good condition and prop- erly adjusted. You can also install anti-lift devices such as a pin that extends through both the sliding and fixed portion of the door. There are also numerous locking and blocking devices available in any good quality hardware store that will prevent a sliding door from being lifted or forced horizontally. Place highly visible decals on the glass door near the latch mechanism that indicates that an alarm system, a dog, or block watch / operation identification is in place. Burglars dislike alarm systems and definitely big barking dogs. * Use a secondary blocking device on all sliding glass doors * Keep the latch mechanism in good condition and properly adjusted * Keep sliding door rollers in good condition and properly adjusted * Use anti-lift devices, through-the-door pins or upper track screws * Use beware of dog or block watch decals * Use loud alarms on all possible entrances,
* Use a secondary blocking device on all sliding glass doors * Keep the latch mechanism in good condition and properly adjusted * Keep sliding door rollers in good condition and properly adjusted * Use anti-lift devices, through-the-door pins or upper track screws * Use beware of dog or block watch decals * Use loud alarms on all possible entrances,
Windows are left unlocked and open at a much higher rate than doors. An open window, visible from the street or alley, may be the sole reason for your home to be selected by a burglar. Ground floor windows are more susceptible to break-ins for obvious reasons. Upper floor windows become attractive if they can be ac- cessed from a stairway, tree, fence, or by climbing on balconies. Windows have latches, not locks and therefore should have secondary blocking devices to prevent sliding them open from the outside. Inexpensive wooden dowels and sticks work well for horizontal sliding windows and through-the-frame pins work well for ver- tical sliding windows. For ventilation, block the window open no more than six inches and make sure you can't reach in from the outside and remove the blocking device or reach through and unlock the door. In sleeping rooms, these window blocking devices should be capable of being re- moved easily from the inside to comply with fire codes. Like sliding glass doors, anti-lift devices are necessary for ground level and accessible aluminum windows that slide horizontally. The least expensive and easiest method is to install screws half-way into the upper track of the movable glass panel to prevent it from being lifted out in the closed position. As a deterrent, place highly visible decals on the glass door near the latch mechanism that indicates that an alarm system, a dog, or block watch/operation identification system is in place. * Secure all accessible windows with secondary blocking devices * Block accessible windows open no more than 6 inches for ventilation * Make sure someone cannot reach through and unlock the door * Make sure someone cannot reach inside & remove the blocking device * Use anti-lift devices to prevent window from being lifted out * Use crime prevention or alarm decals on ground accessible windows * Use loud alarms on all possible entrances,
In sleeping rooms, these window blocking devices should be capable of being re- moved easily from the inside to comply with fire codes. Like sliding glass doors, anti-lift devices are necessary for ground level and accessible aluminum windows that slide horizontally. The least expensive and easiest method is to install screws half-way into the upper track of the movable glass panel to prevent it from being lifted out in the closed position. As a deterrent, place highly visible decals on the glass door near the latch mechanism that indicates that an alarm system, a dog, or block watch/operation identification system is in place. * Secure all accessible windows with secondary blocking devices * Block accessible windows open no more than 6 inches for ventilation * Make sure someone cannot reach through and unlock the door * Make sure someone cannot reach inside & remove the blocking device * Use anti-lift devices to prevent window from being lifted out * Use crime prevention or alarm decals on ground accessible windows * Use loud alarms on all possible entrances,
* Secure all accessible windows with secondary blocking devices * Block accessible windows open no more than 6 inches for ventilation * Make sure someone cannot reach through and unlock the door * Make sure someone cannot reach inside & remove the blocking device * Use anti-lift devices to prevent window from being lifted out * Use crime prevention or alarm decals on ground accessible windows * Use loud alarms on all possible entrances,
Interior lighting is necessary to show signs of life and activity inside a residence at night. A darken home night-after-night sends the message to burglars that you are away on a trip. Light timers are inexpensive and can be found everywhere. They should be used on a daily basis, not just when you’re away. In this way you set up a routine that your neighbors can observe and will allow them to become suspi- cious when your normally lighted home becomes dark. Typically, you want to use light-timers near the front and back windows with the curtains drawn. The pattern of them clicking on and off should simulate actual occupancy. It’s also comforting not to have to enter a dark residence. The same light timers can be used to turn on radios or television sets to further enhance the illusion of occupancy. Exterior lighting is also very important. It becomes critical if you must park in a common area parking lot or underground garage and need to walk to your front door. The purpose of good lighting is to allow you to see if a threat or suspicious person is lurking in your path. If you can see a potential threat in advance then you at least have the choice and chance to avoid it. Exterior lighting needs to bright enough for you to see 100 feet and it helps if you can identify colors. Good lighting is definitely a deterrent to criminals because they don't want to be seen or identified. Another important area to be well-lighted is the perimeter of your home or apart- ment especially at the entryway. Exterior lighting on the front of a property should always be on a timer to establish a routine and appearance of occupancy at all times. Common area lighting on apartment properties should also be on a timer or photo-cell to turn on at dusk and turn off at dawn. The practice of leaving the ga- rage or porch lights turned on all day on a single family home is a dead giveaway that you are out of town. Exterior lighting at the rear of a home or apartment are usually on a switch because of the proximity to the sleeping rooms. The resident can choose to leave these lights on or off. Security lights with infra-red motion sensors are relatively inexpensive and can easily replace an exterior porch light or side door light on single family homes. The heat-motion sensor can be adjusted to detect body heat and can be programmed to reset after one minute. These security lights are highly recommended for single family homes. * Use interior light timers to establish a pattern of occupancy * Exterior lighting should allow 100 foot visibility * Use good lighting along the pathway and at your door * Use light timers or photo-cells to turn on/off lights automatically * Use infra-red motion sensor lights on the rear of single family homes * Use loud alarms on all possible entrances,
Exterior lighting is also very important. It becomes critical if you must park in a common area parking lot or underground garage and need to walk to your front door. The purpose of good lighting is to allow you to see if a threat or suspicious person is lurking in your path. If you can see a potential threat in advance then you at least have the choice and chance to avoid it. Exterior lighting needs to bright enough for you to see 100 feet and it helps if you can identify colors. Good lighting is definitely a deterrent to criminals because they don't want to be seen or identified. Another important area to be well-lighted is the perimeter of your home or apart- ment especially at the entryway. Exterior lighting on the front of a property should always be on a timer to establish a routine and appearance of occupancy at all times. Common area lighting on apartment properties should also be on a timer or photo-cell to turn on at dusk and turn off at dawn. The practice of leaving the ga- rage or porch lights turned on all day on a single family home is a dead giveaway that you are out of town. Exterior lighting at the rear of a home or apartment are usually on a switch because of the proximity to the sleeping rooms. The resident can choose to leave these lights on or off. Security lights with infra-red motion sensors are relatively inexpensive and can easily replace an exterior porch light or side door light on single family homes. The heat-motion sensor can be adjusted to detect body heat and can be programmed to reset after one minute. These security lights are highly recommended for single family homes. * Use interior light timers to establish a pattern of occupancy * Exterior lighting should allow 100 foot visibility * Use good lighting along the pathway and at your door * Use light timers or photo-cells to turn on/off lights automatically * Use infra-red motion sensor lights on the rear of single family homes * Use loud alarms on all possible entrances,
Another important area to be well-lighted is the perimeter of your home or apart- ment especially at the entryway. Exterior lighting on the front of a property should always be on a timer to establish a routine and appearance of occupancy at all times. Common area lighting on apartment properties should also be on a timer or photo-cell to turn on at dusk and turn off at dawn. The practice of leaving the ga- rage or porch lights turned on all day on a single family home is a dead giveaway that you are out of town. Exterior lighting at the rear of a home or apartment are usually on a switch because of the proximity to the sleeping rooms. The resident can choose to leave these lights on or off. Security lights with infra-red motion sensors are relatively inexpensive and can easily replace an exterior porch light or side door light on single family homes. The heat-motion sensor can be adjusted to detect body heat and can be programmed to reset after one minute. These security lights are highly recommended for single family homes. * Use interior light timers to establish a pattern of occupancy * Exterior lighting should allow 100 foot visibility * Use good lighting along the pathway and at your door * Use light timers or photo-cells to turn on/off lights automatically * Use infra-red motion sensor lights on the rear of single family homes * Use loud alarms on all possible entrances,
* Use interior light timers to establish a pattern of occupancy * Exterior lighting should allow 100 foot visibility * Use good lighting along the pathway and at your door * Use light timers or photo-cells to turn on/off lights automatically * Use infra-red motion sensor lights on the rear of single family homes * Use loud alarms on all possible entrances,
Alarm systems definitely have a place in a home security plan and are effective. The reason why alarms systems deter burglaries is because they increase the potential and fear of being caught and arrested by the police. Alarm systems need to be properly installed and maintained. All systems should have an audible siren, horn or bell to be effective in case someone does break in. The criminal gets the message and will be long gone. * Alarm systems need to be properly installed and maintained * Alarm systems need to be loud in order to be effective
* Alarm systems need to be properly installed and maintained * Alarm systems need to be loud in order to be effective
Since the prices of good home safes are falling, having a safe in your home is a wise investment. Home safes are designed to keep the smash and grab burglar, nosey kids, dishonest babysitter or housekeeper from gaining access to important documents and personal property. Home safes need to be anchored into the floor or permanent shelving. * Use the safe everyday so it becomes routine * Protect the safe code and change it occasionally * Install it away from the master bedroom or closet
* Use the safe everyday so it becomes routine * Protect the safe code and change it occasionally * Install it away from the master bedroom or closet
This is a program supported by most police agencies. They recommend that you engrave your drivers’ license, not your social security number, on televisions, ste- reos, computers, and small electronic appliances. They suggest this so they can identify and locate you if your stolen items are recovered. I suggest that you go way beyond this step I recommend that you photograph your valuables in their locations around your home and make a list of the make, model, and serial numbers. This is very impor- tant for proof when filing insurance claims. You should keep this list in a safety deposit box or with a relative for safe keeping. Keep receipts of the larger items in case you need to prove the value of the items for insurance purposes. Beyond that, I recommend that you photocopy important documents and the contents of your wallet. You will be thankful that you took these steps in case your home is ever destroyed by fire or flood, is ransacked, or if your wallet is lost or stolen. * Identify your valuables by engraving your drivers’ license number * Photograph and record the serial numbers of all valuables * Photocopy the contents of your wallet and other documents * Store the copies in a safe deposit box or with a relative
I recommend that you photograph your valuables in their locations around your home and make a list of the make, model, and serial numbers. This is very impor- tant for proof when filing insurance claims. You should keep this list in a safety deposit box or with a relative for safe keeping. Keep receipts of the larger items in case you need to prove the value of the items for insurance purposes. Beyond that, I recommend that you photocopy important documents and the contents of your wallet. You will be thankful that you took these steps in case your home is ever destroyed by fire or flood, is ransacked, or if your wallet is lost or stolen. * Identify your valuables by engraving your drivers’ license number * Photograph and record the serial numbers of all valuables * Photocopy the contents of your wallet and other documents * Store the copies in a safe deposit box or with a relative
* Identify your valuables by engraving your drivers’ license number * Photograph and record the serial numbers of all valuables * Photocopy the contents of your wallet and other documents * Store the copies in a safe deposit box or with a relative